TL Aspecs or GS wheels

[Travon]

Hey guys, I'm on the fence about which way to go.
I have a opportunity to get a mint chrome set of
Aspecs with fresh tires for a decent price. The problem
is that the tires are 235/40/18 which I think will rub. I would still need to bore them out, or should I just pass
and get my GS wheels rechromed

[94LegendaryAcuraGS]

Originally Posted by Travon

Hey guys, I'm on the fence about which way to go.
I have a opportunity to get a mint chrome set of
Aspecs with fresh tires for a decent price. The problem
is that the tires are 235/40/18 which I think will rub. I would still need to bore them out, or should I just pass
and get my GS wheels rechromed

Basically I have two questions:

1) Which width wheels are these? I ask this because TSX and TL wheels look identical and so technically there are THREE different possible wheel widths depending on which wheel style.

2) Do you have the offset value on the wheels?

Wheel calculators will tell/show you the difference if you plug in those numbers. I can tell you from experience if you know those numbers.

[Travon]

TL Aspecs. 18x8 with a 45 offset

[94LegendaryAcuraGS]

With the 235 section tires unless they have a "rounded edge" corner sidewall they're going to rub (and drive you insanely crazy) especially when taking turns. Expect that to happen over bumps or relatively relaxed driving should you have anything heavier than say a 2 year old in a car seat in the back. The 8 inch wide wheel will cause the sidewalls of the tires to be more of a box. It would have been a possibility with a 7.5 in wheel which would have been TSX wheels to be honest and you did say you had the TL ones (8.5 or 8 inches wide). If the deal is good enough (those wheels alone did run anywhere from $1400 to $1800 a set) then get them and save funds for a slightly narrower tire (225s should fit just fine and any 215s will make your day) and for the most part 18 inch tire deals are fairly easy to come by (coming from the guy who has had 19 inch OEM tire nightmares in the past).

[Chrispy]

Chaka I gotta stop you there. That is all completely false. I ran the TL A spec wheels on my coupe with a 235/40/18 tire, ZERO rubbing issues at stock height or lowered 4 inches. There is literally less than half an inch difference in width between a 235 and a 225, 215 is less than an inch difference in width. TL a specs will fit fine as myself and many others have used them before. I'd recommend a 235/40/18 or a 225/45/18 tire selection and make sure the center bore of the wheel is bored out to 70.1mm.

[Travon]

Thank you both for your opinions! The reasons I'm even debating is 1 asking price is under 1k and 2 it'll take away from a new head unit and a couple of small things. I just didn't want to spend the money and run into other issues.

[94LegendaryAcuraGS]

Originally Posted by Chrispy

Chaka I gotta stop you there. That is all completely false. I ran the TL A spec wheels on my coupe with a 235/40/18 tire, ZERO rubbing issues at stock height or lowered 4 inches. There is literally less than half an inch difference in width between a 235 and a 225, 215 is less than an inch difference in width. TL a specs will fit fine as myself and many others have used them before. I'd recommend a 235/40/18 or a 225/45/18 tire selection and make sure the center bore of the wheel is bored out to 70.1mm.

Excuse me sir! Now where was your input BEFORE you had to correct me? Well glad to see you do on occasion still contribute to the community. I have run into rubbing issues with 225 width tires if the wheel offset isn't right. I was also running just 17s and not even 18s and they were on 7.5 wide and not 8. I've been where the OP was hoping not to go. The other question I have for you Chrispy is were you running camber on your suspension? I have seen these wheel WITH rear camber (3%) clear with no issues. I should know because that is what I'm doing now. There is one additional factor for the OP to keep in mind and that is the health of your struts. With our cars being in the 25ish age range older struts have a tendency to be soft and not support the car as firmly as newer ones. I've had the originals do it KYBs do it as well as Konis do it and so as they weaken the greater the chance of rubbing ESPECIALLY on the rear. Again I have NEVER had 235s on my car and have had 225s rub on multiple occasions.

If you have any other questions Travon you can hit me up.

[Hockeyman]

FWIW, on 18" TL Aspecs and 225/40/18 it does rub in the rear on my coupe (eibach springs) when I'm carrying some weight back there (had 2 passengers at the time / 200lbs or so).

[Chrispy]

Originally Posted by 94LegendaryAcuraGS

Excuse me sir! Now where was your input BEFORE you had to correct me? Well glad to see you do on occasion still contribute to the community. I have run into rubbing issues with 225 width tires if the wheel offset isn't right. I was also running just 17s and not even 18s and they were on 7.5 wide and not 8. I've been where the OP was hoping not to go. The other question I have for you Chrispy is were you running camber on your suspension? I have seen these wheel WITH rear camber (3%) clear with no issues. I should know because that is what I'm doing now. There is one additional factor for the OP to keep in mind and that is the health of your struts. With our cars being in the 25ish age range older struts have a tendency to be soft and not support the car as firmly as newer ones. I've had the originals do it KYBs do it as well as Konis do it and so as they weaken the greater the chance of rubbing ESPECIALLY on the rear. Again I have NEVER had 235s on my car and have had 225s rub on multiple occasions.

If you have any other questions Travon you can hit me up.

I ran both 235's and 225's no issues at stock ride height and lowered. I had more clearance lowered because the camber was kicked negative 2.5 degrees, which isnt alot considering the spec for the G2 is 0 - -1 degrees. But lowered I was tucking 235's. It wouldn't hurt to roll the fenders very mildly to get a little extra room if rubbing is a concern. I'd suspect worn suspension components and an abrupt compressing of the suspension to be the culprit in most cases.

I still occasionally browse on here. Resurrected V just before winter, put maybe 15 miles on that car in the last 6 months. Haven't decided if I'm keeping her or selling her. Leaning towards selling. Now that JDM models are able to be imported and registered, I'd like to get a clean JDM AT sedan or coupe. The Legend just isn't a priority for me anymore. Ive gone back to my Lexus roots, daily drive a pearl white GS300 stored in winter and I drive my Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer in winter months. Also have a project GS300 that I recently swapped an Aristo 2jzgte into which is a work in progress. Aiming for 650ish rwhp on low boost and 900+ rwhp on E85 and turned up

Originally Posted by Hockeyman

FWIW, on 18" TL Aspecs and 225/40/18 it does rub in the rear on my coupe (eibach springs) when I'm carrying some weight back there (had 2 passengers at the time / 200lbs or so).

When you installed eibach springs, did you use the stock struts? Lowering springs should ideally be ran with koni red struts. I'd guess you have a soft strut or set of struts. You can also try setting the pretension on the lower and upper control arms slightly higher which helps reduce the "sag" effect of lowering springs with added weight. Inspect the rear upper and lower control arms for wear to the ball joints or the rubber bushings where they are mounted inside the rear subframe cradle. Tie bars also help reduce chassis and suspension flex which will also help reduce the sag.

*EDIT* forgot to mention, check the rear radius rods and mounts as well as the rear trailing/toe arm. These cars are old, I'd be willing to bet you find a fair amount of fatigue back there. It made a world of difference when I replace my rear upper and lower control arms and then aligned the car. I also installed rear tie bars which really helped keep the rear end from sagging and kept the car tracking, true and straight.

[Hockeyman]

Originally Posted by Chrispy

When you installed eibach springs, did you use the stock struts? Lowering springs should ideally be ran with koni red struts. I'd guess you have a soft strut or set of struts. You can also try setting the pretension on the lower and upper control arms slightly higher which helps reduce the "sag" effect of lowering springs with added weight. Inspect the rear upper and lower control arms for wear to the ball joints or the rubber bushings where they are mounted inside the rear subframe cradle. Tie bars also help reduce chassis and suspension flex which will also help reduce the sag.

*EDIT* forgot to mention, check the rear radius rods and mounts as well as the rear trailing/toe arm. These cars are old, I'd be willing to bet you find a fair amount of fatigue back there. It made a world of difference when I replace my rear upper and lower control arms and then aligned the car. I also installed rear tie bars which really helped keep the rear end from sagging and kept the car tracking, true and straight.

Running a set of Koni reds. Upper / Lower arms are new Moog. Car has been aligned.