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09-20-2024, 08:59 PM | #1 |
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Not Sure What's Wrong. Please help!!
I recently bought a 91 legend. The car was driving fine but shut off on my fiance while pulling in somewhere to park. She was able to start the car again and park. Five hours later , I made it to where she was and was able to start the carit ran fine , no , weird smells or noises. While test driving the car to the parts store it did it again. I had been driving for probably ten minutes. As I slow down to pull up to the red light The car shut off. Immediately I was able to start it and pull it into a lot. Just to be safe.We gotta toe because we were thirty three miles from home And didn't want to damage anything further than what it already was possibly. When the tow truck arrived , he started the car and it pulled on to the flat bed just fine. When The tow truck dropped the car.We had to start it to park it and it was fine. It genuinely sounded like it was running perfectly. The car's temp gauge also fluctuates. When?
It flucks , you wait , it always comes back down A few seconds later. Currently the The car still Seems to start and run perfectly fine. Car has aftermarket main relay as well. Any ideas? |
09-21-2024, 10:43 AM | #2 |
grill master
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Is the overflow bottle filling up ?
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09-21-2024, 04:35 PM | #3 |
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09-21-2024, 11:59 AM | #4 |
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main relay
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09-21-2024, 04:30 PM | #5 |
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09-21-2024, 12:37 PM | #6 |
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If not the main relay it could also be the ignition switch going bad.
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09-23-2024, 10:52 AM | #7 |
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I would also suspect the main relay. Even the aftermarket ones have a similar design flaw. ALL the Main relay does is tell the fuel pump to pump. The main relay STAYS ON the entire time the car is running. The soldier joints in those relays get hot and expand and once the joints have cracked the expansion causes the circuit to break and IMMEDIATELY the fuel pump loses signal to pump so the car shuts down. Those soldier joints in the relay then cool down a bit and contract so again the circuit is complete and therefore the car starts back up. Its always a good idea to have a KNOWN good main relay nearby just in case.
As for the temp fluctuation IF there is a "lumpy" idle on occasion it may be some air trapped in the cooling system lines. Sometimes however the idle control valve will also give a lumpy idle. Many of the idle control valves are just OLD and need to be replaced. I wouldn't just yet get on the head gasket bandwagon. Keep us informed.
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09-23-2024, 05:32 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
Sorry, I've been super busy working on the road.I promise I want abandoned the thread.I'll keep you updated in the next day or so. Most in the morning spinning the night in the garage , working on it tonight. Thank you for your help so far. Also is there a preferred brand for the main fuel relay? |
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09-24-2024, 12:39 AM | #9 |
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main relay is always first thought. as for fluctuating temp gauge go to the dealer and buy a oem thermostat and put that in. and bleed the coolant with a lisle funnel.
if your feeling froggy while doing all of that change the 3 coolant temp sensors (oem or beck & arnley) and the big rad hoses. that way you know everythings new and working properly. a simple afternoon will solve alot of headaches and problems down the road
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09-24-2024, 04:49 AM | #10 | |
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