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#41 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 14,167
Real Name: Lou aka Greek
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jen your so lucky to even see this car. When ever I go to texas I'm looking him up and having a meet at his hosue lol
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PM BOX IS FULL! Text me 724-584-0340 7/28/10 7:37pm Hell has frozen over Greek REMOVED his engine 1/26/13 7:23pm SHE RUNS! video >>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Se4r5Y3RjqA5/18/13 3:27pm DYNO! 577whp/501wtq @19psi |
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#42 |
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Not forgotten.
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tx
Posts: 3,755
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Just an FYI, all. If some pics don't show up, I'm in the process of reorganizing my pic file structure on my webserver so that they're a bit more orderly. If you think/see something missing, let me know. I'm having to go back and modify all my threads that have pics. When everything is in place, I'll remove this message.
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#43 |
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JDMKING Legend GOD
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: 10-A-Key
Posts: 933
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very inspiring.
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Fut rip! Knowledge, Wisdom, Understanding = 360 L.A.麺部 |
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#44 |
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Not forgotten.
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tx
Posts: 3,755
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Honestly, about this one, I really feel, "forget a DIY" (I'd like to use another "f" word as opposed to "forget" but I'm trying to stop cursing ) This was a hardcore pain in the butt.
But off the top of my head: THIS IS NOT A DIRECT FIT FOR 91-93 LEGENDS! See#2 below. 1) The dash support bar needs to be changed, so you'll need to pull your dash. 2) Outside the wiring, which is another ball game, the electric motor on the steering column butts against the metal brace to which the support collar is to attach. This is a wedge-shaped dropped down piece of metal sitting under the dash. I had to get out the rotozip and take out a significant bit of metal to get it to clear. You'll have to cut about 3 inches off the bottom of the wedge shown below (which was my primary source of angst). Learn from my mistake: when the dash is OUT, do this so you don't have to worry about hitting/cutting anything else.) It will save a CRAPLOAD of time doing it when this is pretty much the only thing down there. Also, there is a vent right next to the heater core that has to be trimmed back. ![]() 3) Instead of bolting the column to the support using the supplied nuts, since the weight is being borne on the support bar alone now, I'd recommend locking washers and nuts so they don't back out. 4) The rest is simply wiring, but my wiring diagram wouldn't benefit anyone but me due to the fact that I'm wiring up TL seats, not Legend seats. 5) Oh, the stock steering column is 18lbs. The tele. unit is ~29lbs. ![]() Now for the seats. I'm very enthused about this. I was so ecstatic about getting the seats in there, I've been driving in an uncomfortable position. A few months ago, I had asked Kenso to send me the seat wiring diagrams from the TL (there are several TL Service Manual PDFs floating on the 'net and eBay, but *none* of them have the wiring for the seats....entire section is gone...can you believe that?) and he obliged (much thanks, my man!) so I took a couple hours, working out some of the kinks. I haven't hooked it up to the memory function yet, but I now have all 8 ways of adjustability! So, for anyone else following with this setup (I know of at least 2 others) all you need to do: 1) On the Legend harness under the seats, you'll be using the brown harness w/the thick wires. Hopefully your TL seats have the pigtails, in which case: Legend harness---------TL Pigtail ________________________________________________ Two black grounds------split the 4 black grounds between 2 on the KA8 side white/red---------------combine white/red & white blue I'm still sorting out the rest, but at least this will allow you to move the seats to your preferred seating position. I'm aiming on integrating the memory function w/the tilt/tele w/these seats, as well as the heating function. This is the condensed version from that other place: All right, here are the pics. 1 and 2) The interior as it sits now. The dash is in, but that's it. Gauge cluster and everything else is still out. I've been driving the car like that for the past 2 days. In the second pic, you'll see one of the primary reasons for pulling all this. ![]() ![]() 3) In the first pic, you can see the motor that is on the side the seatbelt attaches to on the driver's side. It prevents the seatbelt presenter from attaching. I'll have to make some mods to this. ![]() 4) Here you can see the pigtail. The cool part of these seats is there is only 1 harness w/a few wires that attach to the main harness of the car. If you've ever pulled Legend seats out, you'll see they have FOUR harness clips that attach the the car harness. ![]() 5) Here you can see the passenger's side seat. This looks promising, as the presenter mounts to this section, and then the bolt goes through the screw hole. ![]() 6) And here's the passenger's seat. A little dusty, but quite spiffy indeed. ![]() Since I was installing the tilt/tele wheel, I figured I'd go ahead and work on the interior in general. That being said, the TL seats I've been sitting on (no pun intended) since March needed to go in. What I've found out: 1) You can and will need to use the Legend female end of the seatbelts, as the slot for the TLs are narrower. 2) NOTHING PLUGS UP *lol* Almost nothing, that is. 3) You will need to make adapters for them to fit, as the base of the seat is narrower. As this is only bolted-in using one bolt right now, I'm having some brackets adapters made. I went over the design w/my machinist. 3/16"-1/4" thick cold rolled steel, 1" wide by ~16" long. There will be 4 holes drilled into each one: 1 set of holes will be over the location of the stock Legend seat bolt holes, so you can bolt in to the Legend floorpan. The second set of holes will be where the TL seat bolt holes are. These will be tapped so that the seats can bolt into the cold rolled steel. So, cold rolled steel bolts into the floorpan, then the TL seats bolt into the cold rolled steel. 3) On the passenger's side, the Legend's seatbelt will bolt into the seat frame, but you need to drill a hole for the driver's side and either tap it or use a bolt w/a locking nut. 4) The is no way to keep the auto seat belt presenters. Tried, but the width of the seat will not let it happen. Overall, I'm pleased. The driver's side will go in sometime next week, as I'm tied up until then. I should have the brackets by then, also. And I paid less for these than the cost of new leather. I LOVE the perforated seating surfaces, too Oh yeah, they're about 10 lbs lighter than the Legend seats. ![]() Working electronics: Last edited by whats77inaname; 09-17-2009 at 11:10 AM. |
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#45 |
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Need Power
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This is nice, very nice
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#46 |
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Lord Of The Clunker
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,211
Real Name: Ze Orderly?
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Finally some pics of all the craziness that job took! I do not envy you at all on that one!
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#47 |
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Let that V6 breathe!
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: The Netherlands (EUROPE)
Posts: 4,644
Real Name: Adnan
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very nice! looks superb!
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#48 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 14,167
Real Name: Lou aka Greek
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titties!
I like your shift knob
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PM BOX IS FULL! Text me 724-584-0340 7/28/10 7:37pm Hell has frozen over Greek REMOVED his engine 1/26/13 7:23pm SHE RUNS! video >>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Se4r5Y3RjqA5/18/13 3:27pm DYNO! 577whp/501wtq @19psi Last edited by GreekPower; 09-16-2009 at 01:57 PM. |
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#49 |
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Its good to be King
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 150
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Yet again, envious and inspired at the same time.
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95 Acura Legend L, 5-spd, custom Type F interior. |
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#50 | |
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Not forgotten.
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tx
Posts: 3,755
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Thanks, everyone. I'm going to try and start populating this more frequently as I finish up my projects.
Quote:
Since I have a 6MT, if you want it, you can have it
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Last edited by whats77inaname; 09-16-2009 at 02:14 PM. |
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