Legend-Specific Oil Filter Comparo

[cakes]

wow great write-up Gabe! B&A makes surprisingly good aftermarket parts and they're usually my go to if I can't find OEM. It looks like you didn't test the filter I usually use - the NPN short one from amazon. It's usually $7: http://www.amazon.com/NPN-W0133-1636...dp/B001G6QAQU/

[ActionJackson]

Really comprehensive write-up, Gabe. I think I'll stick with using the Denso.

[sam o nela]

Thanks all!

Originally Posted by Captain Slow

Neat. I did a bunch of reading on oil filters a few years ago, and my take away was that the filter didn't matter nearly as much as the oil. I've been avoiding fram without realizing they make two different models. It's nice to hear that purolator and stp aren't total trash. That's what I tend to put in my car (even though it's a 3.5 with a different filter).

I've never heard someone talk about an oil filter failing. What's the danger here? What's the danger for a filter getting changed along with my conventional oil every 3000 miles? Or with synthetic every 6000 miles? Or in a car taken to a track day?

Well, thing is, it really doesn't matter how good your oil is if you have a filter failure. I'll pick on that Fram PH6552 again for a second. Those cardboard endcaps and that chinsy plastic check valve are the most likely points of failure on that filter. A break in either one of those will now have unfiltered oil cycling through the oiling system. Not just at extreme times (like in extremely cold starts or WOT as the filters are designed to do when needed), but all the time. Even worse, is if pieces of filter media or plastic get thrown into the equation. Yikes. Google Image search "Oil Filter Failure" to get a glimpse of just what that looks like. This is all the reason to buy filters that have solid construction and good consistent quality control.

I feel comfortable saying that any of the top scoring filters (large or small) can easily go 6000 miles. Heck I'd be willing to take any of the top tall filters to 7500 with confidence. Of course you should be checking the condition of your oil regularly and change it out if/when it starts to get extremely dark leading up to that mileage level. I'd say that the STP and Fram 8212 are built well enough for 3k-5k oil change intervals. Just keep in mind that their ADBV's were very thin ruber/nitrile construction (the Fram's a bit better than the STPs) and probably should get an even shorter use life during extreme cold winter months (if they are used at all). To be honest, I am using an STP on my G1 right now because I know the oil that is in there is only going to be there a short time (since it has just gotten running and I just need to break in the engine).

While synthetic can go to 10k-12k I'm sure, I've never been brave enough to take it that far in any of my cars lol.

Originally Posted by Ben

Possible to throw Genuine Honda into this as well?

That was definitely part of the plan....until I found out it's a $10 filter at my dealer. It didn't sit well with me spending that cash on one filter just to cut it up. Even the Denso I bought 2 for $7 each and planned to cut one and actually use the other. Really it was principle more than money lol. I've had a few requests though, so I may reconsider haha.

Originally Posted by cakes

wow great write-up Gabe! B&A makes surprisingly good aftermarket parts and they're usually my go to if I can't find OEM. It looks like you didn't test the filter I usually use - the NPN short one from amazon. It's usually $7: http://www.amazon.com/NPN-W0133-1636...dp/B001G6QAQU/

Thanks Waseem! I have added that to my Amazon watch list. When it get's low enough I'll pick it up. And it looks eerily similar to the Honda short filter. I may just have to compare them side by side.

And yeah, I think I have about 15 Beck & Arnely's sitting in my garage now

[Chrispy]

Nice write up Gabe. There's a few filters Id like to see tested that fit the 3.5 and more newer Hondas. The Donaldson, Amsoil, Mobil 1, K&N, and the Honda OEM.

As for the results, cant say there was anything surprising about them other than the Champ filter and the Wix. I have never heard of Champ before, and I expected much better from Wix. Here is one that will boggle your mind....so the shop I work in, we use strictly Valvoline oils and filters (unless the customer requests otherwise), those Valvoline filters are made by...Purolator for Valvoline....weird that their own label tested lower than the Valvoline filters they make at the same place Perhaps Valvoline has a design that they contract out to purolator to produce?

[Captain Slow]

Originally Posted by sam o nela

Well, thing is, it really doesn't matter how good your oil is if you have a filter failure. I'll pick on that Fram PH6552 again for a second. Those cardboard endcaps and that chinsy plastic check valve are the most likely points of failure on that filter. A break in either one of those will now have unfiltered oil cycling through the oiling system. Not just at extreme times (like in extremely cold starts or WOT as the filters are designed to do when needed), but all the time. Even worse, is if pieces of filter media or plastic get thrown into the equation. Yikes. Google Image search "Oil Filter Failure" to get a glimpse of just what that looks like. This is all the reason to buy filters that have solid construction and good consistent quality control.

I feel comfortable saying that any of the top scoring filters (large or small) can easily go 6000 miles. Heck I'd be willing to take any of the top tall filters to 7500 with confidence. Of course you should be checking the condition of your oil regularly and change it out if/when it starts to get extremely dark leading up to that mileage level. I'd say that the STP and Fram 8212 are built well enough for 3k-5k oil change intervals. Just keep in mind that their ADBV's were very thin ruber/nitrile construction (the Fram's a bit better than the STPs) and probably should get an even shorter use life during extreme cold winter months (if they are used at all). To be honest, I am using an STP on my G1 right now because I know the oil that is in there is only going to be there a short time (since it has just gotten running and I just need to break in the engine).

While synthetic can go to 10k-12k I'm sure, I've never been brave enough to take it that far in any of my cars lol.

I just realized your numbering ranks the filters and STP is at the bottom. I was going by your descriptions. I'll have to take a look at what is available for the 3.5 next time I need a change.

[Chrispy]

Originally Posted by Captain Slow

I just realized your numbering ranks the filters and STP is at the bottom. I was going by your descriptions. I'll have to take a look at what is available for the 3.5 next time I need a change.

I would recommend the Denso filter. I switched from K&N to those about a year ago. I havent sent one out for analysis yet...

[rwheadon]

No OEM comparison? Well... I guess I would skip butchering the 14.00 option too.

rich

[sam o nela]

Lol yeah Rich my dealership wanted $10 so that's actually kind of a deal! Principle tho...

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Swift]

SO I have a stockpile of used ones for G2 I was going to do this very same thing.

Did you guys know that in the Fram filter book they list the number for the RL filter(3.5) which we know can possibly fit because of the thread hole being a different size.

Anyways this has to be the best filter write up I have ever seen. Awesome!

[MarcD]

Excellent comparison write up! Been using the Densos for quite some time. Glad to see your test shows it ranks high as I was hoping was the case. I've been using Purlator Pure One filters on my other cars. Wonder how they would rank