09-03-2011, 12:38 PM | #11 |
Acuraholiks Member!
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^ What pads do you use with the HF one? I have one but was scared to use it on the legend.
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09-03-2011, 12:49 PM | #12 |
Kierkegaard binge
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+1 on the harbor freight variable speed orbital...
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I'm selling some decent and somewhat rare coupe parts here---> http://forums.acuralegend.org/filmsh...ight=filmshoot |
09-03-2011, 12:50 PM | #13 | ||
Pisser of Parades
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To Chopped, where did you buy a PC for $300? I purchased mine BNIB for $125 with backing plate. I use mine enough that I had burned out the motor on one, and broke one. I also do professional detailing. I have since switched to a Flex XC 3401, now THAT is a $300 buffer. Much more heavy duty than the PC and gets great rotation. VERY rarely do I need to break out my Dewalt Rotary. In fact, I recommend NOT using a rotary unless you are doing spot scratch removal, or VERY intensive detailing. You cant just continuously buff with a rotary polisher. Each time you buff, you are removing layers of clear coat, eventually you will have none left. Most every Legend Ive seen has been easily detailed with a DA polisher. Choosing the proper pad and compound with a DA should get any beginner or novice detailer an excellent shine. I dont disagree with detailers often, but I strongly disagree with your advice.
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09-03-2011, 03:46 PM | #14 | |
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That said, Honda clear coats are extremely soft. They will scratch, correct, and burn much easier than most German paint, and they are more difficult to finish out hologram-free than harder paint.
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09-03-2011, 03:51 PM | #15 | ||
Formerly "Chopped"
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If I'm detailing an NSX, like Stevieray's NSX for example.... ...and it's a car that's been well taken care of, there are not many scratches, swirls, and contaminants (like tree sap, real problem for this time of year) then a Dual Action is the best choice. HOWEVER, I DETAIL NASTY CARS. I detail Odyssey minivans and old turd Accords that have not been taken care of, and there are scratches, swirls, sap, concrete, bird droppings (ACID!), and all sorts of terrible things lodged into the paint. In my experience, I have found you can work all day on that paint with a DA, and you will never remove all that. Using the high speed buffer with heavy pad and heavy compound is the fastest way to get it all removed and shined up in one step. I bought my Porter Cable when they first came out with the 7424 series. It came with a 10 buffing pad kit, 2 backing plates, wrenches, and extra brushes. Never had a problem, but like I said, I only use it as a final step polisher.
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09-03-2011, 03:57 PM | #16 | ||
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09-03-2011, 03:59 PM | #17 |
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Once upon a time, my paint looked like this:
Have fun fixing that with a DA. Random after (Makita): Rotaries are very, very messy. When you get the hang of it, they give a lot of dust. Before that, you get a lot of splatter.
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Previous | 1995 Legend Sedan | Canterbury Green | Type E Current | BMW M240i | Mineral White | Coral Red Last edited by BluBrett; 09-03-2011 at 04:03 PM. |
09-03-2011, 04:05 PM | #18 | |
Pisser of Parades
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Chopped, I would have to agree there. That's why I said for intensive detail jobs, the rotary would work best.
Brett, Im not so sure my PC would have taken care of that, but I promise you, the Flex would. I used Dreams94coupe's Flex buffer back in November and instantly fell in love with it. It can easily achieve what a rotary would on a med/low setting, say about 1300-1500 rpm. BUT, if you dont have a buffer like that at your disposal for deep swirls, I would definitely recommend a rotary with a CCS orange pad and something like Wolfgang's swirl remover 3.0.
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09-03-2011, 05:45 PM | #19 |
Gone.
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This is done with surbuf pads and griots garage 6" da polisher and meguiars 105, followed by meguiars 205 and tangerine buffing pad, followed by 205 and black buffing pad. This detail was in conjunction with Peachstate Detailing LLC.
Started out on this corvette: This was after, not nearly the same light, but you get the idea: If you know anything about corvette clear, its harder then most, almost as hard as german paints. BTW: this is not leaving any fillers at all. I would never recommend a noob to try out on a rotary, absolutely never. Unless you have a seasoned veteran holding your arm while using the rotary, a beginner is not recommended to have it. Once I learned the cutting ability of the DA with the surbuf pads, i have not looked back. BTW: you can burn paint with random orbitals, its just not as easy as dual action. Id recommend getting the griots garage polisher, its cheaper on amazon and it gets a lifetime warranty unlike other products. Also, I highly recommend checking out autoality.com, they offer free shipping all the time on orders over $50
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09-04-2011, 06:02 AM | #20 |
Formerly "Chopped"
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So back to the original question... should the threadstarter buy a $125 DA? Or should they get the cheap rotary from harbor freight?
My answer is the cheap rotary, as long as it has variable speed. Keep the speed low, and there is low risk burning paint. If they have a bigger budget, buy a DA. But you simply can't expect to remove everything you could have if you used the high speed rotary. This Lexus was an 09 that SHOULDN'T have needed heavy-duty polishing, but when I've painted and wetsanded the hood, and I need the rest of the car to be as shiny as the now-better-than-factory hood, the DA was just not cutting it....pun intended. Also, the DA has never been able to polish out wetsanding jobs. Tim Taylor says, "More POWER!"
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