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Old 03-26-2012, 01:28 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by merlinj79 View Post
OK, I get it. ....
U Sure? you need to learn to do this yourself...they have you cornered...the next step if it isn't air is to replace the master or slave cylinders and THEY WANT YOUR MONEY...HONESTLY OR NOT IF THEY THINK YOURE AN 'EASY MARK' LIKE A LITTLE OLD LADY
possibly.....
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by (/O^O\) View Post
U Sure? you need to learn to do this yourself...they have you cornered...the next step if it isn't air is to replace the master or slave cylinders and THEY WANT YOUR MONEY...HONESTLY OR NOT IF THEY THINK YOURE AN 'EASY MARK' LIKE A LITTLE OLD LADY
possibly.....
Preaching to the choir. I'm a (large) special operations guy, nobody would mistake me for an easy mark. I normally do all of my own work including rebuilds (none of my late-model rice-burners have ever needed much work so I'm not that familiar with front-wheel drive)

Like I said before I'm on assignment away from home with no garage or tools...this was the nearest shop that looked like it MIGHT be reputable.
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Old 04-17-2012, 05:11 AM   #13
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I may have figured this out, the last time the car got hot from city traffic I tried different clutch pedal positions and it disengages fine as long as you don't put the pedal on the floor (I'm a big guy, so I always tended to use pedal max throw). Feels like the throw-out bearing is pushing the disc onto the flywheel?

Clutch works with no issues as long as I leave a little room at the bottom. I'll see if I can adjust the pedal a bit. Or maybe the aftermarket parts don't have the same clearance between disc and throw-out bearing?

The shop claimed they couldn't duplicate it and I thought they were BS-ing me, but thinking back on it the mech was about 5'2'...
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